The Complete Guide to Growing Dung-Loving Mushrooms: Step-by-Step Instructions, Glossary & Supplies

Growing mushrooms that thrive on compost and manure-based substrates—often referred to as coprophilous or dung-loving species—is a rewarding project for home cultivators. These species, which include many gourmet and specialty varieties, have specific needs that set them apart from wood-loving types like oysters or shiitake .

This guide provides a clear, step-by-step framework, a glossary of essential terms, and a supply list to help you get started. As with all cultivation, it is crucial to check your local and state laws before beginning any mushroom growing project .

Glossary of Key Terms

Here is a quick reference for the essential terminology used in mushroom cultivation.

• Coprophilous: A term for organisms, including certain fungi, that grow on animal dung. Many coveted species are coprophilous and thrive on manure-rich substrates .

• Substrate: The material on which the mushroom mycelium grows. For dung-loving species, this is often a mix of coco coir, vermiculite, and gypsum (CVG). Note that CVG provides structure and moisture retention but is not itself nutritional—manure is what provides nutrition.

• Grain Spawn: A substrate (like rye, millet, or wheat berries) that has been sterilized and colonized by mushroom mycelium. It acts as the "seed" to start new grows .

• Mycelium: The vegetative, root-like part of a fungus. It's the network of white, thread-like cells that colonizes the substrate and eventually produces mushrooms .

• Inoculation: The process of introducing mycelium (via grain spawn, a spore syringe, or liquid culture) to a sterile substrate.

• Liquid Culture (LC): A solution of sterilized nutrients (like honey or malt extract) that is colonized by mycelium. LC syringes are a popular and fast way to inoculate substrate .

• Sterilization: The process of eliminating all life forms (bacteria, mold spores) from equipment and substrate, typically using a pressure cooker. This is a critical step for success .

• Still Air Box (SAB): A simple, clear plastic box with arm holes that creates a low-draft environment for sterile work. Useful but optional—strong sterile habits in a still-air room can also work. Turn off your AC an hour before you need to do sterile work.

• Break and Shake: A technique where a colonizing bag of grain or substrate is gently broken up and shaken to redistribute the mycelium, speeding up the process .

• Flush: A single harvest cycle of mushrooms. You can typically expect several flushes from a single substrate block before it is exhausted .

Essential Supplies for Growing Mushrooms

To get started, you'll need to gather these core materials. Many of these can be found at mycology supply stores.

• Grain Spawn: This is your mycelium's starting point. You can purchase pre-sterilized grain bags or jars.

• Substrate Mix: For dung-loving species, a "CVG" mix (Coco Coir, Vermiculite, Gypsum) is a highly effective, manure-free alternative that mimics their preferred environment .

• Grow Bags: Filter-patch grow bags are essential. They allow for gas exchange while keeping contaminants out. An "all-in-one" bag, which combines grain and substrate, is a great choice for beginners .

• Pressure Cooker: Necessary for sterilizing your own grain and substrate to kill off competing organisms. Again you can purchase pre-sterilized grain spawn and substrate bags. An Instapot can also work.

• Spore Syringe or Liquid Culture: This contains the mushroom genetics to start your grow. Liquid culture colonizes much faster than spores .

• Sterile Equipment:

  • 70% Isopropyl alcohol

  • Nitrile gloves

  • A torch or lighter for sterilizing needles

• Fruiting Environment: A grow tent or a dedicated space where you can control temperature, humidity (85-95%), and fresh air exchange .

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace

Cleanliness is everything in mycology. Turn off fans and air conditioning to let particles settle. Wipe down all surfaces with 70% isopropyl alcohol and put on gloves. If you have one, work inside a Still Air Box (SAB) or in front of a laminar flow hood .

Step 2: Inoculate the Grain or All-in-One Bag

1. Spray the injection port and your syringe with 70% alcohol.

2. Flame-sterilize your syringe needle until it glows red, then let it cool.

3. Insert the needle through the injection port and inject 2 mL of liquid culture per pound of grain.

4. Seal the bag and place it in a dark, clean area with a stable temperature between 70-78°F.

Step 3: Incubation and "Break and Shake"

1. Store the inoculated bag in a dark place at a consistent temperature (ideally 70-78°F for dung-loving varieties) .

2. Leave the bag undisturbed for 10-14 days. You should start to see white, cottony mycelium growing.

3. Once you see about 15-20% colonization, perform a "break and shake." Gently massage and break up the colonized grain and mix it thoroughly within the bag. This redistributes the mycelium and speeds up colonization .

4. Re-form the mixed contents into a solid block shape, seal the bag, and return it to incubation .

Step 4: Colonization and Fruiting

1. Once the grain bag is fully colonized (completely white and firm), it's time to add it to your bulk substrate.

2. In a clean workspace, break up the colonized grain spawn into individual kernels.

3. Open your substrate bag and add the colonized grain. A good ratio is roughly 1 part grain spawn to 2-3 parts substrate by volume.

4. Mix the grain and substrate thoroughly so the spawn is evenly distributed.

5. If desired, add a thin casing layer of plain substrate over the top. Lightly scratch the surface to create texture for pinning.

6. Fold the top of the bag and secure it with clips. Return the bag to incubation at ~75°F.

7. Colonization of the substrate usually takes about 2 weeks. Resist opening or disturbing the bag during this time.

Step 5: Initiate Fruiting

1. Once the substrate is fully colonized and white, it's time to initiate fruiting.

2. Cut a 1-2 inch slit or "X" in the plastic of the grow bag just below the filter patch. This allows fresh air to enter.

3. Place the bag in an area with ambient light and temperatures around 75°F.

4. Mist the inside of the bag to maintain high humidity (85-90%). Fan the bag a few times a day if needed for fresh air exchange.

5. The bag itself is the fruiting environment—no separate chamber is required.

Step 6: Harvesting & Post-Harvest Care

1. Harvest your mushrooms when the caps begin to flatten and just before the veil breaks.

2. Gently twist and pull or cut the mushroom at the base.

3. Continue to mist the block and maintain fruiting conditions to encourage additional flushes (usually 3-4 total).

4. After each harvest, fill any holes with leftover substrate, lightly ruffle the surface, mist deeply, and return to incubation.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational and educational purposes only. It is the user's responsibility to be aware of and comply with all local, state, and federal laws regarding the cultivation of mushrooms, including the legality of spores, mycelium, and the specific species involved

How to Build a Lasagna Garden Bed with Mushroom Blocks

Download Printable PDF

Are you staring at an empty raised bed, dreading the cost of bagged soil? Or looking for an easy and budget-friendly way to build incredible soil? Spent mushroom blocks aren't trash, they're packed with living fungal mycelium that continues breaking down woody substrate into humus-rich organic matter—improving soil structure, holding water like a sponge, and feeding your plants for years. Best of all, by using them, you're helping us keep 10,000 pounds of waste out of the landfill every week.

Materials:

• Spent mushroom blocks

• Coffee grounds, grass clippings, veggie scraps

• Finished compost or topsoil

• Garden fork or shovel

• Raised bed (optional, you can build in-ground)

Step 1: Break Up the Mushroom Blocks

Break up the spent block into chunks about the size of your fist. You can use a garden fork or shovel to help. Don't pulverize them—chunky pieces allow airflow and give the mycelium room to keep working.

Step 2: Build the Bottom Layer (6 inches)

Spread the broken-up mushroom blocks evenly across the bottom of your empty raised bed. This is your carbon powerhouse—it'll create long-lasting soil structure and water-holding capacity as it breaks down.

Step 3: Add the Middle Layer (6 inches)

Cover the blocks with 6 inches of nitrogen-rich material—coffee grounds, grass clippings, or vegetable scraps. This green layer balances out all that carbon. Water this layer lightly to start the decomposition process.

Step 4: Cap with the Top Layer (6 inches)

Add a final 6-inch layer of finished compost or topsoil. This gives your seeds and seedlings a gentle place to get started while the layers below break down into rich soil. Water everything thoroughly.

Step 5: Plant!

Your bed is ready! Plant seeds or transplants directly into the topsoil layer. The layers underneath will continue breaking down, feeding your plants all season long.

⚠️ Critical: Don't Overdo the Carbon!

Mushroom blocks are very high in carbon. Stick to the equal-parts ratio—carbon (blocks), nitrogen (greens), and topsoil. Too many blocks without enough nitrogen will slow decomposition and rob your plants of nutrients.

Seasonal Maintenance

Each new planting season, you don't need to rebuild the whole bed. Top-dress with 2–3 inches of fresh compost and mix in 1–2 crumbled mushroom blocks per 4x4 foot bed and water well. The fungi already living in your soil will wake up and start breaking down this new organic matter, keeping your bed fertile with minimal effort.

Bring Huitlacoche to Your Garden - 2026

If you are in Austin area, we are giving away spores and corn seed. Seeds available at the 78702 mushroom block pick-up until gone.

You are looking at corn infected with the smut producing fungus Mycosarcoma maydis. Does it look edible to you? Not only is it edible, it is outstanding.

We harvested 5 lbs of huitlacoche from one plot in 2026

The Central Texas Mycological Society (CTMS) is launching a new experimental crop, huitlacoche or Mycosarcoma maydis. Like many of our mycological friends, huitlacoche straddles the line between a symbol of decay and a delicacy. To the corn farmers of the American plains, it is known as corn smut, a common and undesirable crop disease that forms in particularly hot humid summers. To the maize-centric cultures of Central Mexico, huitlacoche is a traditional part of the diet, a prized crop in itself, and a culinary delicacy. Much the same way that, for example, Chicken of the Woods is the object of many on a foray for a foraging mycologist but, to an arborist, it is a pathogen hollowing out the heartwood of a great old tree, now not long for this world. 
‍ Mycosarcoma maydis infects the kernels of the corn primarily, producing huitlacoche though it can also infect the tassel and stalk. Infection causes the kernels to form into distended darkened galls that are a culinary treasure, though a blight to the producers. The majority of the resources referring to huitlacoche for US based institutions are written as profiles on diseases and pathology, for example the pages from Texas A&M Agrilife Extension and the Wisconsin University Horticulture Extension with passing references to its consumption. Such articles are detailed accounts of how to diagnose and avoid Corn Smut infection but, with a slight change in perspective of the reader, they become useful guides in how to induce smut formation.
If you want to try huitlacoche before you dive in (though there’s more to the experience of cultivation than just the eating) you can purchase it at a few different Mexican specialty markets and restaurants. Fresh huitlacoche is highly seasonal, coinciding with the corn season,  so calling ahead is recommended before going to either a restaurant or market, however, some import the corn flash frozen and can stock it year round. If you’re in the Central Texas area, CTMS has compiled a map of restaurants that serve huitlacoche or have in the past, if you know of others, please let us know.
Over the past few years, we have learned a great deal about how to successfully cultivate huitlacoche specifically in the climate of Central Texas. In spring 2026, we harvested 5 pounds from a single small plot in Central Austin, proving it to be a viable crop for Central Texan gardeners.
If you are interested in growing huitlacoche, contact CTMS, we have earmarked a portion of our harvest to be used to produce the spores to be distributed for future cultivation.

What do you need to grow Huitlacoche?

• Humid summers, high temps below 95°

• A small area or few pots to grow corn

• Spores (or liquid culture) of M. maydis

Picking your Corn variety

Bloody Butcher Corn from Southern Exposure Seeds is well suited to Central Texas

If you are not in Central Texas, here are links to where we bought our seeds. Liquid culture of M maydis is available online but we had little success with it. Spores are harder to find.

The first step to cultivating huitlacoche is growing corn. Texas Gourdseed was selected for the first test plots of CTMS (alongside some other strains), an heirloom variety from Central and South Texas. It is drought and flood tolerant and disease resistant generally though susceptible to smut infection which represents a high probability of successful huitlacoche production. Later seasons used Bloody Butcher and a crossbred variety of Gourdseed with great success.
The variety of corn affects the flavor of the resulting smut. Sweet corn and hybrids are often used among American producers and yield a sweeter, less traditional tasting huitlacoche. Avoid popcorn varieties as the exceptionally hard pericarp makes it more difficult for the mycelium to penetrate into the kernel. Varieties marketed as resistant to fungal infection should be avoided, including GMO varieties which are generally resistant.

• Non GMO, Heirloom varieties

• Especially susceptible to smut

• Open pollinated for higher likelihood of desirable environment

• 3+ ears per stalk

• Taste, sweet corn yields sweeter huitlacoche, not traditional

• TTM - Time To Maturity - pick a variety that will mature when conditions are right

Plant Cultivation

Find a guide with a planting strategy that suits your needs. Fertilize, water, monitor, and generally care for the plants exactly how you would for a regular corn crop with a few exceptions.
Plant your corn so that it will mature when high temperatures are between 85° and 95° degrees. Look at the time to maturity on your corn variety and the almanac for your region to count back to when you should plant. For example if your corn has 90° day TTM and your almanac says that high temps are 95° in July, plant in April. I generally aim for a late February or early March planting for a spring crop. The same goes for fall; you are looking for high temps above 85° which is early October, so you would plant in early July for a fall crop after counting back 90 days. Greenhouses also allow you to control temperature and humidity, so you can plant after July, decreasing your reliance on the external environment. Just make sure to keep your greenhouse from getting above 95° in the daytime.
Most corn planting strategies are built around pollination, however for huitlacoche we do not actually want our plants to be pollinated. Huitlacoche infection is most effective before pollination occurs. This means that you don’t have to commit to a large corn crop like most of the growing guides will tell you. You can attempt to cultivate huitlacoche in pots, small raised beds, even window boxes if you don’t mind corn stalks blocking your window like prison bars. A surprising step in cultivating huitlacoche, unlike corn, is that you can even de-tassel the corn plants to prevent pollination. 
Another major departure from traditional corn planting guides is the pattern of planting. For huitlacoche, your corn plants must be accessed frequently. This is unlike typical corn cultivation, where growers need to access the crop only when it is planted and harvested. The plants must be accessed to monitor ear development. When the time is right, huitlacoche growers will inoculate each ear as they form over a couple of weeks. Then once inoculation occurs, monitor gall development and harvest the ear before the galls turn to spores. All of this requires regularly walking among your plants, for this reason we recommend leaving generous row spacing and not companion planting with squash (we do companion plant with beans though) as you will likely trample the vines.
The tassel is the male pollen producing portion of the corn plant. It grows at the very top of the plant and showers pollen upon the ears of corn below that take in the pollen via the silk that extends beyond the end of the ears. De-tasseling is a common procedure to artificially select for corn plant genetics. By planting two varieties of corn side by side and de-tasseling one of them, you can assure hybridization in that corn as they must have been fertilized by the other tasseled variety. De-tasseling is not required but it is an effective way to increase huitlacoche yield especially if you do not care about having a corn harvest. This is an important caveat. If you choose to detassel your corn you will have no fully formed ears of corn. If you are trying to produce both, you simply need to be vigilant in your inoculation and make sure you are intervening early before the ears are pollinated.
If you want to try a mixed crop of corn and huitlacoche (or if you have a neighbor growing corn nearby that would expose your corn to tassels) shoot bags can be used to prevent pollination of some ears while leaving others available to produce corn. There are specialized shoot bags for corn as well as other crops that emphasize hybridization like cannabis production that are permeable to particles smaller than the size of the particular plants pollen allowing maximum ventilation for the plant. However this can be done with simple paper bags, ideally ones that are waxed if there is rain or heavy dew in the forecast. We purchased our shoot bags from Seed Savers Exchange. Simply place the bag over the ear before the silk has emerged and pinch off a little to draw it tight to the stalk below the ear and secure it with a staple or paper clip in the loose flap of paper. You can even inoculate the ear by piercing the syringe through the bag if you want without risking exposing it to pollen in the open air.

Liquid Culture

We have found liquid culture to be far less effective in cultivating huitlacoche, however, it is easier to acquire online than spores and is nearly infinitely expandable, so it is useful as a tool of necessity. It is much more delicate than spores both to storage and environmental conditions when injected. It is also likely to be weak from senescence if the culture has been repeatedly expanded. You should also check your liquid culture under a microscope to ensure that it is indeed a Mycosarcoma maydis at all, sometimes, over years of expansion yeast or other infection can completely replace the initial sample.
There are many online guides for the production of Liquid culture (LC) that the reader can follow. We will link a few at the bottom of this article. For the purposes of our first trials, a 5% corn syrup (other sugars are perfectly acceptable) solution was sterilized in a pressure cooker and injected with LC syringes purchased from online vendors.
Typical mycelial cultivation which is done with sterilized jars or bags of cooked grain or wood pellet substrate, where the contents are dead and a perfect growing environment for any manner of infection that is introduced through the thin barrier separating the vulnerable substrate from the outside world, teeming with eager bacteria and spores. However, for huitlacoche, the substrate is a living ear of corn. Live corn has an intact innate immune system which offers partial protection against infection from poorly suited would-be invaders such as bacteria and molds. Secondly, the manner of injection is inherently unsanitary as it will be performed in the garden, outdoors, exposed to the rich ecosystem of microorganisms of soil ecology and airborne spores and bacteria. This means that some basic, limited contamination of the LC reservoirs, while not ideal, does not render the LC useless as the corn can resist some infection.

Spore Solution

Preparation of spore solution for the fall 2025 crops.

Spore solution is the traditional and preferred method of cultivation. Cultivation goes back to ancient times where there are records of Central American people dipping flint knives into a slurry of spores and slicing into the ears of corn to inoculate. Today livestock syringes with a reservoir of spore solution are used.
To prepare the huitlacoche specimens for spore solution, allow the galls to continue to develop and dry, I usually do this in a container that allows air flow but does not allow fruit flies to enter, like a paper bag or a screen covered container. Once the specimen has dried remove the galls and crush them gently in a molcajete or blender. Once you sieve out the larger pieces the resulting spore powder should store in a jar in a cool, dark place for years. I save the larger pieces and mix them in with the next crop’s seed corn before planting. Always wear an N95 mask when working with spores, even non toxic varieties can cause breathing issues and asthma attacks.
Once your corn has been planted and your ears have started to develop, create your spore solution as needed. We used a .4g to 1g/L solution, between one half and one gram of spores per liter of distilled water or sterile water. M maydis spores, like most fungal spores, are highly hydrophobic, meaning they will resist mixing with water and will separate out over time. This is not an issue, just shake your jar before filling your syringes and shake your syringe (without sticking yourself) before injecting your ears to mix the spores back into solution. Everything should be clean but this is not a sterile process, the spores will have dirt, bug feces, and molds mixed in already, and the inoculation occurs out in the field, hardly sterile. A still air box can help contain the spores while working with them but is not necessary for sanitation purposes.

If you are in Austin area, we are giving away spore syringes and corn seed. Seeds available at the 78702 mushroom block pick-up until gone.

Inoculation

When the ears of corn are approximately cigar sized, which is around the time that the silk has emerged from the top of the ear, they are ready for inoculation. You can do a simple test on a sample ear to ensure they have not been fertilized. This is not strictly necessary especially if you can ensure that there has been no exposure to tasseled corn within approximately ¼ mile.
Most huitlacoche grown in the US in small quantities is produced via liquid culture, unlike in Central Mexico where spores are used. The most traditional method, employed since pre-columbian times is to take a sharp knife and successively dip it in a thick solution of spores and water and nick through the husks of unfertilized young ears of maize to produce infection. Modern producers in Central Mexico typically use syringes attached by hose to a reservoir of spore solution made with spores from previous harvests. Most producers in Mexico inject inoculant into the ears twice, a couple of inches from the top and bottom of the ears, targeting the silk channel, in between the husk and the kernels.
With liquid culture in the United States most small producers inject 5-10 ml of LC into the ear at the top, inserting the needle along the silk inline with the ear (silk channel inoculation)  instead of through the side of the husk. For subsequent planting, the spores saved from previous harvests are generally used though some producers do continue to use LC.
The most important part of inoculation is that you want the spores or liquid culture to reach the entire ear top to bottom, for this reason multiple injections is recommended.

1. Inoculate when ears are still skinny and cigar sized

2. Right before silk emergence or just after

3. Seriously, don’t stab yourself with the syringe

4. Shake syringe to mix into solution

5. When inserting the syringe, try to find the silk channel between the cob/kernels and the husk.

6. Inject ~1ml of solution 1-2 inch down from the top of the ear

7. Inject ~1ml of solution 1-2 inch up from the bottom of the ear 
   

8. Label the ear with the date using a sharpie

9. Watch the ear over the coming weeks to monitor the development

10. Timing varies, 10-40 days

11. Bulges will form below the husk

12. Harvest once galls have enlarged and turned gray/black but before infected kernels turn powdery inside



    

Harvest

Ears should be harvested once the galls have developed but before sporulation has occurred. Various time frames are given for this in different sources as local environmental effects as well as inoculation techniques can change the length of time necessary for development. LC develops faster than spores. Warm temperatures and higher humidity increase the speed of growth. Recommendations vary from 14-16 days to others stating 12-14 days is already too late. The essential point is to harvest before the galls have turned powdery inside. Once the spores have fully developed in a gall and began to turn powdery, consumption of that gall can cause considerable gastrointestinal upset; save those galls for future spore solution. 
The galls can be peeled or cut from the cob and refrigerated separately or on the cob for shorter periods. If you’re blessed by the maize gods with a successful crop of huitlacoche, there are some great recipes to try out. The most common is a huitlacoche quesadilla with sauteed huitlacoche, diced onions, and epazote inside. Simple and delicious. We’ve even made tamales where the whole tamale, husk, masa, and filling are all from the same corn plant. There’s no wrong way to enjoy it. Huitlacoche is a fantastic ingredient in soups, tacos, and traditional Mexican crepes, so invite some friends over and get to cooking.

The Hidden Life of Texas Orchids: A Mycorrhizal Mystery

by Angel Schatz

If you joined us for our past orchid mycology walk, you had the thrill of spotting the rare and beautiful Bletia nitida—commonly known as the Glass Mountain Crested Coralroot. It was a special treat to see them blooming, a testament to the right combination of rain and humidity that creates their perfect microclimate. For those who missed it, you can see the stunning photos from our walk here.

But the true wonder of these orchids isn't just in their delicate, waxy rose-brown flowers. It's in the secret life they lead underground, a life so bizarre it challenges our very understanding of what a plant is.

What's in a Name? The Science of Reclassification

First, a bit of botanical housekeeping. You might remember this orchid as Hexalectris nitida, which sounds like a superhero name. Recent molecular analyses have led scientists to reclassify it. It now officially resides in the genus Bletia, making it Bletia nitida. This isn't just a name change; it reflects a deeper understanding of its evolutionary relationships. The expanded genus Bletia now includes orchids that are completely myco-heterotrophic, meaning they have little to no chlorophyll and rely almost exclusively on fungi for their nutrition. Our Bletia nitida is a prime example of this fascinating group.

A Plant That Doesn't Photosynthesize

Most plants are autotrophs—they use sunlight, water, and carbon dioxide to create their own food through photosynthesis. Bletia nitida is an achlorophyllous plant. It has no leaves and contains no chlorophyll. So, how does it survive? It has evolved a strategy called mycoheterotrophy.

In this relationship, the orchid acts as a parasite upon its fungal partner. It doesn't offer the fungus sugars in return for nutrients like most mycorrhizal partnerships. Instead, it obtains all of its carbon and mineral nutrients by parasitizing the fungus.

A Web of Deception and Dependency

The process is a remarkable example of subterranean sleight-of-hand. The mycoheterotrophic orchid connects to fungi that are, themselves, mycorrhizal with a nearby autotrophic tree. This creates a three-way network:

1. The tree photosynthesizes, producing sugars.

2. The fungus taps into the tree's roots, absorbing these sugars in exchange for minerals like phosphorus and nitrogen.

3. The orchid taps into the fungus, diverting the sugars and nutrients for its own use.

In essence, Bletia nitida is a "cheater" in this ecological network, bypassing the need to photosynthesize by stealing resources from the fungus, which originally acquired them from another plant.

Extreme Fungal Specificity

One of the most remarkable aspects of this relationship is the extreme specificity Bletia nitida shows toward its fungal partners. Research has demonstrated that Bletia nitida associates exclusively with a very narrow range of ectomycorrhizal fungi .

Specifically, the fungi identified in association with Bletia nitida belong primarily to the Sebacinaceae family (subgroup A), a group of fungi that form ectomycorrhizal relationships with trees . These aren't just random soil fungi—they are the very same fungi that connect to the roots of oaks and junipers in the shaded canyons where the orchids grow . Here’s some media of this fungi growing near the Orchid from rainy years.

This specificity is so precise that Bletia nitida and related species in the H. spicata complex appear to associate strictly with members of the Sebacinaceae subgroup A, with each orchid species often targeting a distinct subclade within that group . In fact, studies of B. nitida show the highest fidelity toward their fungal partners, rarely associating outside their primary fungal clade. This means when you spot a Bletia nitida, you're not just seeing a rare orchid—you're looking at evidence of a highly specialized, ancient partnership with a specific underground fungus.

Texas: A Hotspot for Bletia

Our state is a biodiversity hotspot for this unusual group. Texas is home to more species of the Hexalectris genus (now largely folded into Bletia) than any other state in the world. You can find them in three main hotspots: the mountains of far West Texas, the shaded canyons of the Edwards Plateau, and the White Rock Escarpment in north-central Texas.

A Closer Look at Bletia nitida

• First Discovery: It was first observed by Barton Warnock in 1940 in the Glass Mountains of West Texas, which is how it gets its common name.

• Rarity: This orchid is considered vulnerable throughout its range. It is a shy bloomer, often self-pollinating (cleistogamous) and rarely displaying fully open flowers .

• Growth: It typically grows to about 20 cm or less, bearing a dense cluster of 12-20 flowers on a short inflorescence. It prefers the rocky, shaded sides of canyons under oaks and junipers.

The Big Picture: A Scientific Frontier

The story of Bletia nitida and its mycoheterotrophic cousins is far more than a botanical curiosity. It's a powerful window into the complex, hidden networks that sustain life in our woodlands.

The next time you walk through a Texas oak-juniper woodland or canyon, remember that the most fascinating life might not be the trees towering above you, but the coral orchids and their fungal partners carrying out a silent, parasitic drama right beneath your feet.

📸 Help Us Document These Wonders

Have you spotted Bletia nitida or other fascinating orchids and fungi on your hikes? We'd love to see your observations!

• Add your sightings to iNaturalist: Your observations help scientists track populations and better understand these rare species. We've been monitoring known locations and discovering new ones , and your contributions make a real difference. Be sure to obscure your observations since these species are vulnerable.

• Share your photos with us: Tag us in your posts or send us your best shots from the trail.

Every observation adds to our collective knowledge and helps protect these incredible organisms for future generations. Happy exploring!

Reference Links

https://www.inaturalist.org/observations?taxon_id=1269436

https://www.instagram.com/explore/search/keyword/?q=Hexalectris%20spicata

https://goorchids.northamericanorchidcenter.org/species/bletia/nitida/

https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=heni2

https://wildflowersearch.org/search?&tsn=43606

https://books.google.com.sg/books?id=uOyzAQAACAAJ&dq=inauthor:%22H.+Kennedy%22&hl=en&sa=X&redir_esc=y

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David Ringer (2007)

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Michelle Wong (2020)

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Photo by Richard Reynolds (2010)

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Photo by Angel Schatz (2021)

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Aiden Campos (2023)

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Reid Harden (2024)

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John Barr (2024)

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Sebacinacea fungi (2021)

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Angel Schatz (2019)

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John Hilbun (2021)

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John Barr October 2022

A Detailed Guide: Collecting Mushrooms for DNA Barcoding

This guide covers the essential steps for community scientists, as presented in the April 21, 2026, live stream with Walker Moore of the Longhorn Mycological Society.

Before You Go: The Golden Rules for Science

• Goal: Your collection is not just for ID—it’s for a fungarium (a preserved mushroom collection) and potentially DNA sequencing. Every detail matters.

• One Mushroom = One Voucher: You are not just taking a sample; you are creating a permanent scientific record.

• Safety First: Never eat or even taste a mushroom for identification. Some are deadly.

Step 1: Find a Good Specimen

• Choose wisely: Look for a fresh, intact, mature mushroom. Avoid old, waterlogged, bug-eaten, or rotting specimens. The DNA degrades quickly in poor specimens.

• Get the whole thing: You need both the cap and the base of the stem (where it attaches to the wood or ground). This underground part often has crucial features for ID.

Step 2: Record Vital Field Notes (Do This FIRST)

Before you pick the mushroom, document where it lives. Use a notebook, camera, or a field data app like iNaturalist. Key info:

• Date

• Precise location (GPS coordinates are best).

• Habitat/Substrate: What is it growing on? Be specific:

  • On soil (bare, leafy, mossy?)

  • On wood (dead log, living tree, stump, fallen branch? What tree species, if known?)

  • On dung, other fungi, or debris.

• Associated plants/trees: Note the dominant trees within 10 meters (e.g., "under live oak and juniper").

• Light/moisture: Shady, full sun, recently rained, dry.

• Take Photos – The Required Angles (See this visual guide)

  • Wide habitat shot

    • Step back 2–5 meters

    • Show the mushroom in its surroundings (forest floor, log, or tree base)

    • Proves ecological context and nearby plant life

    Mid-range shot

    • Stand 0.5–1 meter away

    • Show the mushroom and its immediate substrate (e.g., "growing from that crack in the dead log")

    • Captures relationship between mushroom and what it grows on

    Top of cap shot (directly overhead)

    • Hold camera perpendicular (straight down) over the cap

    • Capture cap shape, color, texture, and any patterns (scales, streaks, warts)

    • Do not tilt the camera – shoot flat to the cap surface

    Underside shot (gills/pores/spines) – in situ

    • Do not pick the mushroom yet

    • Carefully brush away leaves or flip camera at ground level

    • If impossible to see without picking, note "underside not visible in situ" in your journal

    • (After picking in Step 3, take another clean underside shot)

    Side profile shot (ground level)

    • Crouch or lie down at ground level

    • Show the stem (stipe) and how it joins the cap

    • Also show the base of the stem entering the substrate

    Stem base shot (taken AFTER picking – see Step 3)

    • After carefully digging up the mushroom

    • Photograph the intact base that was underground

    • Shows basal bulb, root-like structures (rhizomorphs), or attached debris

    Scale reference (include in at least one shot)

    • Place a coin, key, field ruler, or known object next to the mushroom

    • If no scale object, write in your notes: "cap approx ___ cm wide"

    Pro Tips (from Walker Moore's class)

    • Do not rearrange nature. Take "before" shots before moving any leaves or grass

    • Take more photos than you think you need – digital film is free

    • Use natural light when possible; flash washes out color and texture

    • If using flash, write "flash used" in your journal

    After Photographing – Then Collect

    After picking, take one additional photo of the intact stem base (the part that was underground) and the underside now that you can see it clearly.

Step 3: Collect the Mushroom

• Clean hands/tools: Ideally, wear disposable gloves. Use a clean knife. You want to avoid contaminating the mushroom with your own DNA or other fungi.

• Dig, don’t pull: Gently dig around the base to get the entire stem base intact. You can cut the very bottom dirty part off, but keep the rest of the stem base.

• One specimen per bag: Place only one mushroom species per bag (paper bag or wax paper bag is best). Never use plastic bags – they trap moisture, causing the mushroom to rot and mold, destroying DNA.

Step 4: Preserve for DNA (The Critical Part)

DNA breaks down quickly at room temperature, especially in heat.

• Within 1-2 hours of picking: You must dry the specimen.

• Dehydrator: Use a food dehydrator at low temperature (below 45°C / 113°F) until cracker-dry.

• Silica gel drying (best for DNA): Place the fresh mushroom in a small, sealable container (like a Ziploc) completely covered with indicating silica gel (the kind that changes color when saturated). The mushroom should be dry and crackly in 1-3 days.

• NO heat sources like ovens or direct sun, as high heat fragments DNA.

Step 5: Package for the Lab

• Once cracker-dry (it snaps, doesn't bend), put the dried mushroom into a labeled paper envelope or zip bag with a tiny silica gel pack.

• Label MUST include: Your collector name, a unique specimen number (e.g., iNaturalist ID), the date, and GPS coordinates. This ties your physical collection to your field notes. Use the iNaturalist ID if possible because it contains all this meta data.

What Happens Next at a Lab Like Mycota Labs?

1. A tiny piece of the dried mushroom is taken for DNA extraction.

2. A specific "barcode" gene (usually the ITS region – Internal Transcribed Spacer) is amplified using a process called PCR.

3. The DNA is sequenced and compared to a giant online reference library (like GenBank or UNITE).

Final Tips from Walker Moore’s Talk

• Don’t worry if you can’t ID it. You aren't expected to know the species. Your job is excellent collection and preservation. The DNA will reveal its identity.

• Beware of cross-contamination. Don't touch one mushroom and then another without changing gloves. If you drop a mushroom on the ground, you can still collect it (just note "dirty" in your notes).

• Connect with a local fungarium or mycology society (like Central Texas Mycology or Longhorn Mycological Society). They can provide you with silica gel, collection kits, and a place to send your dried specimens.

Your simple kit:

• Notebook & pen

• Small trowel or knife

• Paper bags or wax paper bags

• Silica gel + small airtight container

• Camera & GPS (your smartphone works)

By following this guide, your mushroom hunt turns into real scientific discovery – one sample at a time.

The Easy Guide to Cold Water Pasteurization for Straw (Using Lime, Calc, or Ash)

If you are growing mushrooms on straw, especially oysters, wine caps, or stropharia, you have probably heard about pasteurization. The goal is simple: give your mushroom spawn a head start by knocking back the mold and bacteria that naturally live on straw, without sterilizing it completely.

While hot water pasteurization is the gold standard for many, Cold Water Pasteurization (also known as Lime Pasteurization) is a fantastic, low-energy alternative. You don't need a giant pot, a burner, or a propane tank. All you need is a bucket, some cold water, and a source of alkalinity.

Let’s dive into how to do it, and what you can use to get that pH high enough to do the job.

Why Does It Work?

Cold water pasteurization relies on high pH (alkalinity) rather than heat to kill contaminants. By soaking straw in highly alkaline water (pH 11 or higher), you create an environment where most competing molds and bacteria cannot survive. However, mushroom mycelium, specifically fast-growing species like Oyster, can handle the high pH long enough to colonize the straw. Once colonized, the mushroom mycelium lowers the pH naturally and takes over.

What You'll Need: The "Alkalinity" Options

You have a few choices when it comes to the ingredient that raises the pH. Here are the three most common:

1. Hydrated Lime (Calcium Hydroxide): This is the most reliable and commonly recommended option. It is also known as pickling lime (sometimes sold in grocery stores for canning) or builders lime (available at hardware stores).

   • Crucial Warning: Do not use agricultural or garden lime (Calcium Carbonate). It will not dissolve well and will not raise the pH high enough to pasteurize. You need the hydrated stuff.

2. "Calc" (Calcium Hydroxide): If you are in Europe or reading forums, you will see the term "Calc." This is simply the German word for lime, and it refers to the same chemical: Calcium Hydroxide. If you buy "Calc" or "Weisskalk" at a European hardware store, you have the right stuff.

3. Wood Ash (The "Back to Basics" Option): If you can't find lime, or you want a truly rustic approach, you can use hardwood ash. Ash is alkaline (it contains potash and some residual calcium oxide). However, it is less predictable than lime.

   • How to use it: You need a lot more ash than lime. A common ratio is to fill a mesh bag with ash and let it soak in the water, or simply mix a high volume of ash directly into the water until it turns "slippery" to the touch (indicating high pH). Because ash is weaker, soaking times may need to be extended, and the success rate can vary depending on the type of wood burned. It works, but for consistency, lime is the winner.

The Recipe: Measurements That Work

The golden ratio for hydrated lime (pickling lime or Calc) is:
2 grams of lime per 1 liter of water.

Here is how that translates for different sized buckets:

Water Volume Lime Required (by weight) Approx. Volume (Cups/Spoons)

1 Liter ( ~1 Quart) 2 grams ~ ¾ teaspoon

10 Liters (~2.5 Gallons) 20 grams~ 2 Tablespoons

20 Liters (~5 Gallons) 40 grams~ ¼ Cup + 1 Tbsp~

200 Liters (55-Gallon Drum) 400 grams ~ 2.5 to 3 Cups

Pro Tip: A kitchen scale is your best friend here. Measuring lime by volume (teaspoons/cups) can be tricky because it compacts differently depending on the brand. If you can, weigh it!

Step-by-Step: The Process

Step 1: Safety First!

Hydrated lime (and ash water) is caustic. It has a high pH, meaning it can dry out and burn your skin. Wear gloves, safety glasses, and a dust mask when handling the powder.

Step 2: Prepare the Straw

Chop your straw into 1-3 inch pieces if it is long and stringy. This makes it much easier to mix with spawn later. Stuff the straw into a mesh bag, pillowcase, or a plastic laundry basket that fits inside your bucket.

Step 3: Mix the Lime Bath

Fill your container with cold water. Sprinkle your measured lime (or ash) into the water and stir vigorously until it dissolves. The water will look milky or cloudy.

Step 4: The Soak

Submerge the straw completely. You must keep it underwater. Put a heavy plate, a brick, or a clean rock on top to weigh it down.
Let it soak for 16 to 24 hours.

Step 5: Drain and Rinse? (The Great Debate)

After soaking, pull the straw out and let it drain.

• Do I need to rinse? Some growers rinse the straw with fresh water to neutralize the pH before adding spawn, worried the high lime will hurt the mycelium. Others do not rinse, believing the high pH acts as a "protective shield" until the mycelium takes over.

• The Consensus: If you are growing Oysters, you generally do not need to rinse. If you are growing a more sensitive species, a quick rinse with clean water won't hurt. The most important thing is that the straw is at field capacity—moist but not dripping when you squeeze a handful.

Step 6: Inoculate

Mix in your grain spawn immediately. Your straw is now clean, wet, and ready for the mushrooms to take over!

Final Tips for Success

• Don't Reuse the Water: The lime water will be full of dead bacteria and mold spores by the end of the soak. Do not use it for a second batch, as it is no longer "clean."

• Check the Smell: When you open the bucket after 24 hours, the straw should smell clean, perhaps a little earthy. If it smells sour or rotten, something went wrong (likely not enough lime or the straw wasn't fully submerged). Toss it and try again.

• Hydrated Lime vs. Quicklime: Make sure you have Hydrated Lime (Calcium Hydroxide). Do not use Quicklime (Calcium Oxide), which is much more dangerous to handle and creates a violent exothermic reaction when mixed with water.

Cold water pasteurization is a game-changer for the home grower. It is cheap, requires no energy input, and is surprisingly effective. Whether you use pickling lime from the supermarket, Calc from the hardware store, or a bucket of foraged ash, you are on your way to a bountiful mushroom harvest.

Happy growing

How Find the Texas Star Mushroom

Also know as Devil’s Cigar, Kirinomitake, Chorioactis geaster

By following these steps, you can increase your chances of finding our rare and fascinating state mushroom. Happy hunting!

Step 1: Understand the Ecoregion

Geographic Range: The Texas Star Mushroom is primarily found in Central Texas, with sightings reported as far south as San Antonio and as far north as the Oklahoma border in Choctaw County. It has also been observed in Wharton County near Houston. It has also been found in Japan an Taiwan. It is rare because it has a very limited geographic distribution compared to many species of mushrooms that are found all over the world.

Ecoregion: Focus on areas within the Central Texas ecoregion, particularly those with a mix of woodlands and open spaces. The mushroom is often found in areas with dead or decaying cedar elm trees.

Step 2: Identify the Right Habitat

Tree Association: Look for dead cedar elm stumps in forests where they grow. Identify cedar elm (Ulmus crassifolia) by its small, rough, serrated leaves with a sandpapery feel, corky ridged bark, and compact form. In fall, its leaves turn orange and fall after the first frost. Decomposing stumps appear as black, hollow crowns with jagged edges due to fungal decay. Search for these stumps and examine their edges and roots for cigar or star-like formations.

Season: The mushroom typically fruits from late fall into early spring after rains. Plan your search during these months for the best chance of finding it.

Step 3: Visit Known Locations

State Parks: Check out Inks Lake State Park and McKinney Falls State Park, where the mushroom has been observed.

City of Austin Parks: Zilker Botanical Garden, Shoal Creek Greenbelt, Southeast Metro Park, and the Barton Creek Greenbelt are hotspots.

Other Locations: Brushy Creek in Cedar Park, Meadow Center and Purgatory Creek in San Marcos, Landa Park in New Braunfels, and McAllister and Olmos Park in San Antonio.

PRO TIP: Check out where and when it has been historically observed on iNaturalist.

Step 4: Look for Specific Features

Initial Appearance: When the mushroom initially fruits it resembles a dark brown cigar with a long stem connected to the cedar elm roots or stump.

Dehiscence: When the mushroom detects a change in humidity it splits open radially into a star-like arrangement of three to eight leathery rays. When the mushroom detects the wind it releases of a smoky cloud of spores accompanied by a hissing sound.

Step 5: Listen and Observe

Hissing Sound: The hissing sound is a unique feature of the Texas Star Mushroom. Only a few mushrooms are known to create an audible sound when spores are released. It sounds like a fizzing noise, like the bursting of bubbles in a glass of soda. Be very quiet!

Spore Release: Look for the release of spores, which can be seen as a smoky cloud. This happens after the mushroom splits open and there are multiple spore releases over a few days until the mushroom get eaten by insects and wildlife.

Step 6: Document Your Findings

Photographs: Take clear photographs of the mushroom, noting its stage of development (closed cigar shape or open star shape).

Location Data: Record the exact location where you found the mushroom. Use GPS coordinates if possible.

Share Observations: Consider sharing your findings on platforms like iNaturalist or Mushroom Observer to contribute to community science efforts and help others find them.

Step 7: Respect the Environment

Leave No Trace: Avoid disturbing the habitat. Do not remove the mushrooms or damage the surrounding area.

Follow Regulations: Ensure you have any necessary permits if you are collecting samples for scientific purposes.

Step 8: Join a Community

Central Texas Mycological Society (CTMS): Join local mycological societies or groups like CTMS to connect with other enthusiasts and participate in organized forays.

Online Resources: Utilize online resources to learn more about the Texas Star Mushroom and share your experiences.

Tag us with your photos on social media and add your observations to iNaturalist.org

Videos of the Texas Star Mushroom on Texas Country Reporter

2025: Cheers to Another Year of Mushroom Magic!

As Texas weather served up another year of dramatic swings—from drought deluge to sudden freezes—the fungal kingdom thrived in the chaos. Just like resilient mycelium, our community adapted, connected, and flourished underground. This year-end review is our fruiting body: the visible, celebratory result of that persistent, hidden growth.

Record Membership

Membership has grown to over 1,380 supporters from 168 cities in 21 different states. You can support us by with a individual or family membership, by volunteering, or making a one-time donation. Volunteers become automatic members and also get 30% discount on merch and event tickets.

520,000+ Blocks Composted

That’s 10,000 mushroom blocks diverted from the landfills PER WEEK. Thanks to the 500+ volunteer mycelium network this equals 4 million lbs annually. This organic matter now regenerates soil and grows mushrooms. We're grateful for this community power, whose 1,700 hours ($60K value), equates to planting 7,350 trees.

Record No. of Education Events

We had 154 education events including mushroom walks, talks, block giveaways, and workshops in 22 cities, reaching over 10,000 students. The mycelium is running in Austin, San Antonio, Bastrop, San Marcos, Boerne, Seguin, and Waco with events as far as deep east Texas. Next year we plan to reach even more cities and counties in Texas.

SporeCorps Launched

This year we launched a community lab in Austin in a vintage 1968 Shasta Airflyte. We kicked off with a flow-hood workshop and a three-part, online, cultivation series. Anyone can learn the skills to to create their own lab space and grow mushrooms at their own pace with our on-demand course.

Health Soils, Healthy Trees

We wrapped up the fourth year of Healthy Soil, Healthy Trees, a partnership with City of Austin Urban Forestry, Ecology Action, and TreeFolks to conduct community research on mycorrhizal relationships in urban reforestation efforts. We will continue to do research through 2026 so keep an eye out for community workshops.

What’s in Store for 2026:

• New Community Lab in Austin

• More Online Courses & Live Streams

• Mushroom Cultivation Workshops

• Mushroom Cultivation for Youth

• More Art Workshops

• Camping Forays (If we get enough rain)

• 5 Year Celebration of the Star Mushroom

Let’s hope for more rain and then mushrooms! Join us in becoming a supporting member as we continue to be mesmerized by fungi!

Enter to Win a Texas Mushroom Tee

Your feedback is essential to us. Take a few moments to share your thoughts on this year’s educational events and be entered to win. Your response will help us improve future events and create a better experience for all!

How You Can Support

🧧Become a supporting member or give a membership gift card.

👕Purchase merch including our new Texas mushrooms tee with a design from Mystic Multiples.

✋Volunteer and help us keep organic matter out of the waste.

🍄 Give a ♻️🍄🧱 underneath your trees to protect them this coming winter.

💸 Make a donation to support mycology education and the recycling program.

How to ♼ Mushroom Blocks: FAQ's & Growing Tips

Frequently Asked Questions

What are mushroom blocks?

Commercial farmers grow culinary mushrooms in plastic grow bags filled with a sterilized, organic blend of sawdust, grains, and nutrients that feed the mycelium (white stuff). NO SALTS USED The bags are kept on shelves in a controlled environment that simulates the temperture (65-75°F) and humidity (80-90%) that is ideal for the mushrooms. Once the block is fully colonized and covered with mycelium, it is ready to fruit. The bags are cut open to allow in enough oxygen for the mushroom to fruit. After 3-7 days, the mushrooms are ready to harvest. The blocks are donated to be composted or to grow more mushrooms. This is why the bags are already open.

Where do they come from

From commercial mushroom farms in central Texas. Many times mushroom farms grow mushrooms once, and then end up getting tossed in the waste. In Austin, we are collaborating with a local mushroom farms to help keep used mushroom blocks out of the waste to give people the opportunity to grow them using various methods.

If you don’t live in Austin contact your local mushroom farm to see if you can take mushroom blocks to compost. Visit our map of Texas Mushroom Companies.

How do I grow another fruiting of mushrooms?

1. Keep mushroom block in the existing plastic bag and place out of direct light in a cool environment at 65-75°. A Martha Tent or Shotgun Fruiting Chamber is a great idea to contain the spores and helps create a humid environment when temperatures are too hot outdoors.

2. Spritz with water 2-3x per day

3. After about 2-3 weeks, the mycelium (white stuff) will start to develop “pins” or baby mushrooms.

4. Water more frequently and in 2-5 days a “flush” of mushrooms will be ready. Harvest with a knife before the caps curl up!

5. Compost after harvest.

Will mushroom blocks grow another mushroom that is poisonous?

No, a mushroom grow block will not randomly grow a poisonous mushroom. The block is inoculated with a specific fungal species, and unless contaminated by another fungus, it will only produce the intended mushroom. However, if once opened and exposed to wild spores, other fungi like green mold or trichoderma will colonize it. This fungus is really beneficial to plants and actual prevent other fungal pathogens. Learn more about benefits. Always have an expert identify any unexpected growth before consuming!

How to Use as Compost

1. Remove from plastic bag and dispose of plastic bag in the trash.

2. Break up the block and sprinkle it on your garden bed, mix it with mulch or wood chips, or add it to compost.

What are the benefits of using mushroom blocks in my garden?

1. Great for soil health

2. Supports the ecosystem

3. Keeps methane out of landfills (good for climate!)

4. Fill your belly with delicious and nutritious organic mushrooms for free

5. Support your local mush community!

Does the mushroom blocks contain salts that will hurt my plants?

NO! Many studies on mushroom compost like this one advise against using a lot of mushroom compost because they contain high salts. NO SALTS are used in the process of growing gourmet, culinary mushrooms like oysters and lions mane. These are WOOD-LOVING mushrooms and they grow on sawdust, grains and nutrients.

Mushroom farm such as Kitchen Pride (which we don’t work with) produce white button mushrooms such as cremini and portobello. These are DUNG-LOVING or mushrooms that grow on manure and have soluble salts used in the process. This type of compost contains high levels soluble salts that can harm young seedlings and kill germinating seeds. Since these are a very common mushroom grown and there are a lot of research and content about spent mushroom compost it appears at the top of search results.

When should I harvest?

Harvest mushrooms from a grow block when their caps start to flatten or their edges curl up, before they drop significant spores (oysters) or spines elongate too much (Lion's Mane), usually 3-7 days after pinning; the key is texture (firm, moist) and shape, not just size, and always pick the whole cluster at once for best quality. 

If you harvest too late, they are still good for soups, oyster mushroom jerky and dehydrating and powdering. They flavor can be a little more bitter and texture more fibrous.

What kind of mushrooms are they?

Look for a tag with a code on the bag and also look at the hole in the bag to determine variety.

Less Common Variety Codes: Y: Yellow Oyster P: Pink Oyster, MA: Maitake, SH: Shiitake E: Enoki

Growing Tips

Indoors: (Anytime)

1. Leave in the bag and put in moist area like a kitchen or in bathroom. A Martha Tent or Shotgun Fruiting Chamber is a great idea to contain the spores and helps create a humid environment when temperatures are too hot outdoors. Growing mushrooms indoors is not recommended at scale unless you can contain the spores in a fruiting chamber. Growing a few blocks indoors and under supervision is safe. (See allergy precaution below.)

2. Air circulation is important. Turn on overhead fan or place fan facing away from mushrooms.

3. Keep Moist: Spritz with water on slit daily. Keep an eye out for pins (tiny mushies), water 2 - 3x a day.

4. Harvest after 3 - 5 days before the caps start to curl up and spores drop.

5. Compost or use as mulch in garden.

Outdoors: (Late Fall-Early Spring)

1. Once temps are below 80 degrees you can leave the block in the existing bag and place it in a shady spot under a tree or shrub, on your porch.

2. Keep it moist, water daily. They love rain water so make sure they can get exposed.

3. Keep an eye out for pins (tiny mushies), water 2-3x a day.

4. Harvest after 3 - 5 days before the caps start to curl up.

5. Compost or use as mulch in garden.

Key Elements for a Successful Grow

Humidity

Ideal humidity is 80-90% so spray with filtered water 2-3 times a day and keep in a humid area. Try putting them inside a cardboard box or container to contain humidity. Just remember air flow and light are also important.

Air Circulation

Mushrooms give off carbon dioxide and intake oxygen so give them a space for air circulation.

If you see green, black, or orange moldy spots, then feed the block to your compost. Green mold is great for plant growth.

Light

During the colonizing stage (3+ weeks), keep your mushrooms in a cool, dark place below 80°. Once you see “pins” aka baby mushrooms, give your mushroom more light and oxygen. UV light is how mushrooms create vitamin D.

More Growing Tips

• Fold the bag over the slit to retain moisture until you see tiny mushrooms. If possible, keep the square white filter patch directly accessible for airflow.

• Spritz water around the mushrooms (not directly) for best results.

• Mushroom blocks make liquid over time! Just pour it out!

• After a few times fruiting, the block will be done. Unbag, smash, and compost!

Important Allergy Precaution

Spores can cause problems indoors for people with allergies. Keeping them in sight is important. If you are going out of town for an extended period put them outside because mushrooms can grow and spread spores in 5-7 days. If you see any mold forming on your block, use a spoon to break it off and dispose of it immediately outdoors. Mold spores, like mushroom spores, are not good to inhale in large quantities.

How to support this program:

Help us continue to keep 10,000+ blocks out the waste by leaving us a donation. (Suggestion is $5 per block).

Tag us online with pics of your mushroom growing experiments OR share your story here.

December Mushroom of the Month: Fly Agaric, Amanita muscaria

🍄⭐The December mushroom of the month is the Fly Agaric, Amanita muscaria

👏 Congrats to Candice for guessing it right and winning a membership to the society! 🎉

You can also be a supporting member to stay dialed-in with events & discover next month’s mystery mushroom.

Cultural Icon

The Fly Agaric is one of those rare species known equally well by its scientific name, Amanita muscaria. It’s iconic red and white cap has made it a pop culture fav. Beyond that, it has a rich history of human use that reaches deep into the past. It has been associated with Santa Claus, who may have been a Siberian shaman, mysterious elixirs (like the soma of the Hindu Vedas) and even Jesus Christ (John Marco Allegro, The Sacred Mushroom and the Cross). Today, its medical benefits are being rediscovered by a new crop of ethnomycologists and entrepreneurs.

Taxonomy + ID

Amanita muscaria is a widely distributed mushroom native to temperate and boreal forests of the Northern Hemisphere, now also naturalized in the Southern Hemisphere, forming mycorrhizal relationships with various trees, especially firs and spruces.

The mushroom emerges as white eggs. Its maturing cap is covered with small, pyramid-shaped warts—these are remnants of the universal veil, a membrane that encloses the entire mushroom when it is still very young.

As it grows, the red colour appears and the warts become less prominent. The cap changes from globose to plate-like (2–12" wide). Age and rain can fade the colour and wash the warts away.

Mythical + Medicinal

Amanita muscaria’s link to Christmas traces back to Siberian shamans using it as an entheogen during the Winter Solstice. They delivered dried mushrooms to villagers, a process that converts ibotenic acid into more potent muscimol. This mushroom has also been postulated as the ingredient in the Vedic elixir, soma, and connected to early Christianity.

While muscimol is psychoactive, in small doses it has a wide range of medicinal benefits, including mood enhancement and relief from anxiety. There are a wide range of products on the market today that contain Amanita muscaria extract, but as the market is fairly unregulated it is highly suggested to research potential products and purchase from vetted companies.

Become a Supporting Member and stay dialed in with events & discover next month’s mystery mushroom.